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Threads of Peru Blog

Chaullacocha & Chupani’s field trip to Chayhuatire

Chaullacocha & Chupani’s field trip to Chayhuatire

In a continuation of last week’s post, this week we took some 25 women from the communities of Chaullacocha and Chupani to the renowned weaving village of Chayhuatire, which has been weaving for an international market for over 20 years. The women had chosen to visit this village through consensus at their respective weaver’s associations meetings.

The weavers of Chupani, Chaullacocha and ChayhuatireThese visits are part of Threads of Peru’s further improvement of these women’s weaving skills – the visits not only act as a reward for their work during the year but inspire them by seeing weavings better than their own, and by learning about alternative dying and weaving techniques.

 

Chaullacocha & Chupani weavers (foreground) listen to the Chayhautire weaver's presentation

Chaullacocha & Chupani weavers (foreground) listen to the Chayhautire weaver's presentation

When we arrived at 6.30am at the agreed pickup point, there were already 10 women assembled – they must have been up before dawn to be there at that time! The other 15 women appeared on small specks on the horizon, hurrying – almost running- towards the agreed pickup point. An hour later there were no more figures trotting towards us, and we headed off. One of the girls in our car exclaimed with excitement, “I got a window seat!” 

(At back) Narcissa now dressed in typical attire. Note the initials woven into the beading on her montera NAHIn Ollantaymbo we collected some more women, most notably Narcissa from Chupani who ran alongside us until we realized who it was and let her in. We didn’t recognize her immediately, because she was dressed in typical campesino clothes from the Valley, a floral skirt and sweater. When she climbed in, I exclaimed “Where is your lillkla and pollera (traditional skirt)?” She smiled breathlessly, or perhaps a little ashamedly, and indicated she had her clothes with her. Sure enough, later she looked like all the rest, with her llilkla (cape), traditional hat, and a red bayeta skirt. It’s a sad reflection on society that she was dressed in “Valley” clothes. Sure, she was still identifiable as a ‘campesina’ (rural person) but she was not identifiable as remote indigenous – for her fellow Peruvians - and no doubt the hoards of snap happy foreigners that flood through Ollanta and would make life uncomfortable for a person dressed in traditional clothes.

We now had our full complement – 8 women and 1 man from Chupani, 12 women and two teenagers from Chaullacocha and some 6 breastfeeding babies scattered throughout the two cars. In Calca we stopped for snacks at the market, and as the women got out of the car a group of Peruvians were heard to ask, “Where are they from?” knowing that they were Peruvians, but from a completely different world. For me, the day’s personal highlight was being sufficiently trusted by Virginia from Chupani to hold, then wrap her baby and then put it on her back as she fixed it in place using a manta.

Weavers examine a weaving

 Weavers examine a weaving

Looking at the wooden looms

 Looking at the wooden looms

The weavers of Chayhuatire were awaiting us, resplendent in their typical dress, which they don’t wear on a daily basis but do wear for special occasions. In Chayhuatire both men and women weave, and they also use wooden looms in addition to the backstrap loom. They were going to do a dying demonstration, but as it had been raining torrentially in the week up to our visit, there was no dry wood to be able to boil the pots. Their president is quite a character and made a lengthy presentation in Quechua about their organization and weavings. In short, they use a combination of natural wool, cono wool (machine spun) and alpaca and they dedicate all of their time to weaving (as opposed to other pursuits, like agriculture)

Weaving is very textual. Demesia was continually stroking the fibres on this loomPictures tell a thousand words, and the photos here show the women fascinated by and extremely enthusiastic to see the Chayhuatire weavings After a delicious Chairo soup lunch, the Chayhuatire people were insistent and proud for us to visit the local rock paintings. Our party of some 45 brightly dressed indigenous people made quite a sight as we scrambled up the hill to see the llamas painted on the rocks. On the way back, the women dug and picked around in the plants, digging up cactuses and picking leaves…  

Admiring the cave paintingsOur trip home involved another stop at the Calca market for the women to do all important shopping (like women worldwide, they shopped excitedly, not only for food but hairclips and trinkets)… We arrived at the drop off point, from where some of the women had a 3 hour walk, at dusk.. With adjustment of their loads, held in mantas on their backs, along with their babies… they commented on the freezing cold and then they were off, scampering down the mountainside. As we drove off, I looked back and I could see them in the rapidly failing light, walking at a deadly pace in Indian file, their pollera skirts moving in rhythm, wiggle-waggle.

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Threads of Peru: a brief background

Hola and welcome to the Threads of Peru blog.

Our blog has been created to provide frequent updates on our activities in the high Andean communities where we work.

Threads of Peru is a not-for-profit, non-governmental organization (ngo) registered in Cusco, Peru. The founding members represent the countries of Canada, Australia, and Peru.

“Threads of Peru has been created to educate the world about the unique beauty and cultural significance of the Andean people and their textile traditions. Through the web, community tours, and international sales, we connect indigenous Andean weavers of Peru to a global market; contributing to the survival of this art form and to the health and well-being of the people that sustain it.”

Our colourful and comprehensive website provides much information about the world of Andean weaving. You can check it out here www.threadsofperu.com 

Threads of Peru are currently operating projects in high Andean communities which are located above Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. We work with the women of the weaving associations in the villages of Rumira Sondormayo, Chaullacocha and Chupani. Our work involves frequent meetings with the women of each assocation. After the development of weaving projects it became obvious that if Threads of Peru was to increase the income of the women, we also needed to provide capacitacion on how to spend their money responsibly, effectively and in the best interests of their family. Our monthly meetings include the following capacitacional aspects, delivered by Quechua speaking professionals/experts.

* The thread that ties the groups together and is the common theme is revitalising traditonal weaving traditions.

* Monthly meetings include workshops on dying, native plants, spinning, Andean iconography and weaving techniques.

* Improving the quality of the weaving, through capacitacion and insipration is a common theme. Weavers are inspired via weaver exchanges, field trips and visits by well known weavers.

* "Better living" workshops include speakers on nutrition, hygiene, family planning, the effects of alcohol on the body and also empowerment that enables women to identify domestic violence.

* Those women who are interested or have aptitude are also encouraged to take basic Spanish lessons, as well as administration and governance classes.

* Plans include further developing the nutrition aspects of the program to include growing their own foods.

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Field trip to Choquequancha & Ccachin, Valley of Lares

Field trip to Choquequancha & Ccachin, Valley of Lares

Over 12 months ago the women of the weaving associations had suggested to us that they would like to visit and learn from other weavers.. It had taken a year to organize but on November 11th 2009, the women of Rumira Sondormayo were to visit the weaving villages of Choquecancha and Ccachin. They chose these two villages, located down the Valley from Lares, in a group meeting a few months earlier.

Weaver Association of Rumira Sondormayo visit Choquecancha

Weaver Association of Rumira Sondormayo visit Choquecancha

A 3.30am departure from Cusco had the Threads of Peru team bleary eyed, but when we got to Rumira Sondormayo to pick up the women of the weaving association they were all dressed in their best and bright eyed, peering about, full of anticipacion.

So off we headed, our convoy of two cars filled with 14 women and two babies, with our first stop in Calca to repair a flat. Politically, its always useful to use someone’s family in these things – in this case the second car we had hired was our weaving teacher, Agustina’s cousin… and whose car had a flat straight away.

In the Calca market, tourists en route to somewhere, stared at our colourfully dressed ladies as they scampered excitedly around buying treats that are not usually available to them. I guess one never forgets that they are unique, but seeing them through the tourist’s eyes was a wake up call.

As we climbed towards the pass, a stroke of luck meant we could see the Centre of Traditional Textile’s Awana Wasi at Accha Alta in operation. We visited their beautiful building and our women shyly spoke to the weavers. Their weavings are incredibly beautiful and their poise was quite assured, very different than our ladies who seemed overawed by something that in our eyes was quite simple. Urbano, our community liaison person, at this stage, “got it.” A broad grin stretched across his face as he exclaimed, “this is cultural exchange!”


Weavers of Rumira Sondormayo meet the weavers of Accha AltaIt was 5 hours drive to arrive at Choquecancha, our first visit… a pretty long trip by our standards, but the women sat bolt upright, looking around and out the windows with intense curiosity. Mainly, they were silent, only occasionally exclaiming about something or another. Choquecancha has an amazing Inca wall within the village and ruins all about. By some bad communication (fairly typical of Peru) the women had thought we were arriving the week earlier and so had prepared an extensive dying demonstration for us… but this week their presentation was the “light” version. They do not use imported indigo to make blue but have developed their own blues using two different plants. They also explained how their association is structured and that they sell via Casa Campesina in Cusco.

Weavers of Choqueqancha give a dying demonstrationAgustina, our weaving teacher and also organizer of the visits, was in a rush to get over to Ccachin, on the other side of the valley. She was originally from Ccachin and we were to visit her cousin Paulina, the president of a weaving association. Again, you wonder to what extent politics played a part in our brief and somewhat unorganized visit to Choquecancha.

Weavers of Choqueqancha give a dying demonstrationRegardless, the women were happy to go – the insididious jungle biting insects were playing havoc with them, some had blood running down their legs from the bites.Before we left, Paulina and Juliana rushed off with one of the women of Choquecancha – we got a glimpse of dirty unwashed wool being carried away and some time later they returned with a sack of beans and maiz. It was the most emotion that the women had showed in the whole time in Choquecancha, and evidence of trade happening. (in fact the most emotion that the women showed during the whole trip was during ‘shopping’ time – they all bought beans while in Ccachin and there was some more trade going on too).

The drive to Ccachin is breathtaking – probably a 1000metre descent and then another 1000 metre climb on a torturous road with precipe like cliffs. The weaving association here was not nearly as organized as across the Valley – but with some prodding they got a weaver set up and some weavings out… then came a massive two course lunch – maiz cream soup and lisas with the stomach of some animal…Urbano and weavers examine a fine weaving that includes Smile and keep telling them how delicious it is!  The conversation in Ccachin was probably the most valuable for our weavers, as they explained their organization. Of course, most of the conversation in Quechua goes well over our heads… ! However, for me, the importance of Corredor Cusco Puno in capacitacion came up again and again. Also Paulina proudly showed us a prize she had won in a nationwide weaving competition… The importance of ‘concursos’ or shows has also been evident in a number of visits now – to get recognition you need to compete with your weavings. The return drive – less time with fewer stops – was a stark contrast to the drive there. The women giggled constantly, chatted and were very excited. At a pit stop Mercedes and Marina worked hard with stones cutting up a dead looking plant – excitedly explaining it was very good for a sick stomach and infection – which is what Mercedes’s sister Mattiasa has (and precluded her from taking the field trip). Maybe they were relaxed or maybe they were just happy to know they were going home? 

Paulina admires the range of wools available in Ccachin

Paulina admires the range of wools available in Ccachin

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