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Threads of Peru Blog

Bus Rides through the Sacred Valley

Bus Rides through the Sacred Valley

At this point I’ve been in Peru for 3 weeks. In this short time I’ve made the trip down to Urubamba and Ollantaytambo 3 times to attend various meetings and weaving demonstrations. The journey into the Sacred Valley from Cusco is not a quick one, but it does include some pretty spectacular scenery.

From Cusco, you can hop in a combi bus that will take you the 1.5-hour journey to Urubamba (although you’ll have to wait until the bus fills up before departing, no matter how long that might take). Once there, you’ll most likely have to transfer to another combi that will drive you the last 30 minutes to Ollantaytambo. The roads connecting the three cities are rocky and winding, precariously hugging the curves of the cliffs, and are not suited for the faint of stomach. Fortunately I never get carsick, so I love these early-morning and late-afternoon scenic rides through the Sacred Valley. Sometimes I do experience a mini heart attack when the driver speeds up to pass 3 semi-trucks at a time as a tour bus hurdles straight for us, barely swerving at the last minute to avoid a head-on collision, but regardless of the slightly reckless driving style, I genuinely enjoy myself on the trips.

Andes View

 

 The views along the road are breathtaking. As you climb steeply out of Cusco, you can see the entire city sprawled out below you, nestled between the surrounding hills. Then after you crest the peaks, you begin to descend into the Sacred Valley. The impossibly steep, snow-capped Andes in the distance are shrouded in clouds. The rolling green foothills on either side of the road fall in shadowy creases, reminding me of the full skirts of the Quechua women in the villages we’ve visited. The small clear lakes we pass along the way reflect the jagged peaks like mirrors. My favorite time to travel is around 5:00PM, right as the sun is sinking over the distant mountains. This time of day seems magical; the colors of the hills shift from green to gold to orange to pink before finally dusk settles in as I arrive back home in Cusco.  

Written by Megan Malley

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Six Months Later - Pennsylvania to the Top of the World

Six Months Later - Pennsylvania to the Top of the World

Reading Megan’s blog post last week put me to thinking, as almost everything about my work here in Peru has done and continues to do. My thoughts took me back to the same feeling of wonder and inspiration that I felt when seeing traditional Quechua weaving in action for the first time. The first meeting that Sarah Confer and I had with the weavers from both communities, Rumira Sondormayo and Chaullaqocha, and the kind smiles that I received (and that were accompanied by some curious looks that I think may have meant to say “this gringa sure does have a funny haircut”). And then it struck me that in the blink of an eye, my first six months working as the Project Coordinator and Community Liaison for TOP were quickly coming to an end.

That is not to say that I’ll be on my way back to dear Pennsylvania anytime soon! This adventure is much too exciting to be thinking about anything outside the rolling Andes and the thousands of years of Peruvian history that I’m invited to explore each day. But I’m taking this as an opportunity to reflect on what I’ve learned and how much I’ve grown in this personal and professional challenge that I take on each morning. I would say that I do so “with vigor” but there is some very strong coffee and lots of it that I should give credit to before doing so. 

From my first week, purchasing chullos in the remote village of Pitukiska

From my first week, purchasing chullos in the remote village of Pitukiska.

Perhaps my first point that I’d like to express will come across as biased, however it stands to be said that what Threads of Peru seeks to do, our mission and our goals, is beautiful. Even before signing on to the team, I knew the truth of that statement, as I’m sure that all of our followers and friends do as well. Cusco is a living testament to the ingenuity of the Peruvian people through the ages, from long before the time of the Incas, as well as the pride that almost all feel in their culture and their contribution to world cultural heritage. But once you reach the outskirts of urban society, to where ancestral traditions of alpaca herding, potato farming and backstrap weaving are still integral to everyday life, the push to abandon tradition in hopes of better economic and social security is strongly felt.

The tourism industry in Cusco, boasting 2,000,000+ visitors annually, all but forgets these remote villages. We at Threads of Peru and our friends at Apus Peru do not feel that this is any way to move forward, whether here in Peru or anywhere else in the world. History is our shared heritage, as much to the weavers of these communities as to my much missed family back home. None should be asked to leave behind their cultural identity to take part in economic development and benefit from its riches. This truth is my inspiration every day to keep pushing and keep thinking because this project and this team, however small we may be, believes that we can achieve this change, from poverty to participation, for Quechua weavers of the Sacred Valley.

Which leads me to perhaps the most difficult and complicated exercise that I’ve been invited to participate in by accepting this position, that being walking the line between business and charity. The ultimate goal is sustainability and in order to achieve that goal, we must secure enough markets and sales opportunities for Quechua woven textiles for this project to spin round. However, achieving that goal is no easy task, referring back to the “pushing and thinking” above. For us, the cycle of sustainability turns on the point that we cannot reinvest in community development if we do not first achieve sufficient sales numbers. But when our partners, the Quechua weavers of the Sacred Valley, know all too well the daily reality of malnutrition and inadequate housing in their communities, they as well as us struggle to visualize the future (i.e. business) instead of the right now (i.e. charity). 

From last week, visiting Sacred Valley Health and their beautiful family of puppies! Certainly another perk of the job

 From last week, visiting Sacred Valley Health and their beautiful family of puppies! Certainly another perk of the job.

This knowledge, of the beauty of cultural heritage, of the inequality of social and economic development, and of the sincere need for both short and long term solutions to rural poverty, is among the many things that I’ve welcomed into my life over the past six months. I’ve been assured by my experience roaming this wild terrain and becoming friends and associates of its tamers that we are capable of achieving those goals that will make sustainable development a reality, in Peru and worldwide. And in the company of the inspiring men and women that I have met on this adventure thus far, I’m ready for at least another six months discovering what my contribution will be!

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My First Community Visit

My First Community Visit

All at once, I realized the importance of the work that Threads of Peru spends so much time and energy doing.

Only 3 days after landing in Cusco, nestled between the rolling foothills of the Andes, I was on a bus heading up a twisted dirt road to a small community in the Sacred Valley called Rumira Sondormayo. A group of Whole Foods employees from the United States was on an immersion service trip with Apus Peru, and they were there to spend a few days staying with host families in the village and building a new house for future programs. Dana and I spent a morning with the group, doing an overview of Threads of Peru and watching the women do a weaving and dyeing demonstration and selling some of their textile products.

Women with threads in Andes

As soon as I saw Virginia sit down on the ground and slip on her backstrap loom, deftly handling the threads like it was second nature, I realized how important it is to help these women keep the weaving tradition alive. So much can be expressed and interpreted through the intricate and beautiful textile designs that the artisans create. They pull subject material from history, experiences in their lives, and the natural beauty that surrounds them. The centuries-old tradition shows us so much about the culture and history of the Andean people, especially because little has changed in the process since its beginnings.

Andean woman eith threads

I was absolutely stunned by the experience of seeing the women weaving the complicated and colorful textiles. Not once did they consult a drawing or an example; they were creating intricate patterns and designs of plants and animals simply from memory. They were so talented, and suddenly I felt overwhelmingly proud to be a part of an organization that helps bring their weavings to the rest of the world.

Child in Andes

 

Written by Megan Malley

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